Questions and answers

No. The domain used to belong to another organization, and later unrelated spam pages appeared on it. The journal is connected to neither; the name came to us along with the domain.

No. We are not a manufacturer, a shop or a workshop. We write about wood floors for readers and do not take orders for work.

We write about types of flooring, wood species and finishes, not about specific products. Sellers' ranges and terms change, while general knowledge about wood stays useful for a long time.

From encyclopedic and etymological dictionaries, technical documentation from manufacturers of parquet, lacquers and oils, and home fire safety guidance from EMERCOM of Russia. We do not invent standards or figures that are not in these sources.

They are different solutions. Strip parquet lets you assemble any pattern and renew the floor by sanding many times, but it takes long to install and requires a craftsman. Engineered planks go down faster and often come prefinished, but their top layer is thinner.

Only if the flooring manufacturer explicitly allows it, and only according to its instructions. Not every wood and not every installation method suits radiant heat, so this question is settled before buying the flooring, not after.

People usually look at harder species and at a finish that is easy to renew. But even hard wood scratches, so felt pads under furniture and a mat at the entrance matter as much as the species.

Old wood gave up its excess moisture long ago and is stable, and the pattern is often handmade and one of a kind. Careful restoration — regluing loose strips, replacing missing ones with matched wood, gentle sanding — often brings such a floor back to life.

Daily dry cleaning with a brush or vacuum is enough. Damp cleaning is done as needed with a well-wrung cloth and a product for your finish, leaving no water on the floor.

A small scratch in the finish can be hidden with a wax stick, a touch-up marker or wood filler of a matching shade, and on an oiled floor with a spot touch-up of oil. All of this is done according to the product manufacturer's instructions.

Most often a creak comes from loosened strips or the subfloor, not from any risk of collapse. But if the floor also sags noticeably, the cause should be found by a craftsman, not by a random shim or glue poured into a gap.

There is no set interval: it all depends on the finish, traffic and care. If the lacquer is worn down to the wood or the floor has many deep marks, it is time to discuss sanding with a craftsman. Until then, a recoat and careful care are usually enough.